My neighbor Jake mentioned something interesting last week. While most people on our street were complaining about Christmas shopping costs, he casually mentioned he’d just moved some money around that would earn him an extra $2,000 this year. Doing basically nothing.
That conversation got me thinking. Why do some people always seem to come out ahead financially, especially during expensive seasons like winter, while the rest of us just… don’t?
Turns out, it’s not about having more money to start with. It’s about knowing where to put it.
So I spent the last few weeks talking to financial advisors, digging through investment forums, and testing strategies myself. What I found surprised me—there are legitimate ways to grow your money this winter that most people simply don’t know exist.
Let me show you what I learned.
The Winter Money Problem Everyone Faces
December through February is brutal for most Americans financially. Holiday spending. Heating bills that make you wince. Tax season stress. Meanwhile, that money sitting in your checking account? It’s actually losing value every single day thanks to inflation.
Here’s the thing though—winter also creates unique financial opportunities that only happen once a year. Year-end tax deadlines. Bonus season. Market patterns that repeat like clockwork. The problem is most people are too busy surviving the season to take advantage of it.
But what if this year was different for you?

I Bonds: The Government Investment Nobody Uses (But Should)
Last month, my sister-in-law Maria told me about something called I Bonds. I’d never heard of them. Turns out they’re savings bonds issued by the U.S. government that automatically adjust for inflation.
When prices go up, your interest rate goes up. When inflation runs hot, you’re protected. And they’re backed by the full faith of the U.S. government, meaning they’re as safe as money gets.
Here’s what makes them interesting right now:
You can buy up to $10,000 per person each year online through TreasuryDirect.gov. But there’s a trick most people miss—you can buy an additional $5,000 using your tax refund. That’s $15,000 per person.
Married? That’s $30,000 as a couple. Have kids? You can buy for them too. Before you know it, a family could be putting away serious money that actually keeps pace with rising prices.
The catch is you can’t touch it for a year, and if you pull it out before five years, you lose three months of interest. But honestly? That forced discipline is probably a feature, not a bug. How many of us would “temporarily” dip into savings that’s too easy to access?
My approach: I’m using part of my tax refund this year to buy I Bonds. Money I would’ve just dumped into my regular savings account anyway. At least this way it’s actually doing something.
Treasury Bills: Better Than Your Savings Account
This one blew my mind. Most of us keep money in savings accounts earning maybe 2-3% if we’re lucky. Meanwhile, Treasury Bills—basically short-term loans to the government—are paying 4-5% right now.
Same government backing. Same safety. Better return. And here’s the kicker: the interest is exempt from state and local taxes.
I talked to my friend David in California who’s paying 9.3% state income tax. For him, that tax exemption makes T-Bills even more valuable. He calculated that a 4.8% T-Bill is equivalent to a 5.3% taxable return in his situation.
How to actually do this:
You go directly to TreasuryDirect.gov (not through a bank—why pay fees?). You can buy T-Bills that mature in 4 weeks, 8 weeks, 13 weeks, or longer. Some people create a “ladder” where they buy T-Bills that mature at different times, so they always have some money becoming available.
I started small last month with a 13-week T-Bill. When it matures, I’ll probably roll it into another one. It’s not going to make me rich, but it’s definitely better than letting that same money sit in my savings account earning nothing while inflation eats away at it.
The 401(k) Move Most People Mess Up
Okay, so you probably know about 401(k)s. But here’s what I didn’t realize until recently: the December 31st deadline for contributions is actually a huge opportunity most people waste.
Let’s say you get a year-end bonus in December. A lot of people just take it as cash, pay a chunk in taxes, and spend what’s left. But there’s a smarter play.
The bonus strategy:
Many employers let you redirect bonuses straight into your 401(k) before you ever see it. This does two things:
- Reduces your taxable income for the year (saving you money on taxes NOW)
- Forces you to invest it instead of spending it
My coworker Tom did this with his $5,000 bonus. By putting it in his 401(k), he reduced his tax bill by about $1,200 (he’s in the 24% bracket). So really, that $5,000 bonus only “cost” him $3,800 in take-home pay. But he’s got $5,000 invested.
Plus, if his company matches even 50%, that’s an instant $2,500 free money added on top.
I’m doing this with at least part of my bonus this year. Maybe not all of it—I’ve got bills too. But even directing 50% makes a huge difference.
Health Savings Accounts: The Secret Retirement Account
This one is legitimately sneaky, and most people have no idea about it.
If you have a high-deductible health plan (a lot of us do now), you’re eligible for a Health Savings Account or HSA. Most people think of it as just a way to pay medical bills. But it’s actually one of the most powerful investment accounts that exists.
Here’s why:
Money goes in tax-free. It grows tax-free. And if you use it for medical expenses, it comes out tax-free. That’s three tax advantages. Your 401(k) only has two.
But here’s the secret hardly anyone knows: you don’t have to spend the money on medical expenses right away. You can invest it—in stocks, bonds, mutual funds—and let it grow for decades.
Pay for your current medical stuff out of pocket if you can, keep your receipts, and reimburse yourself years later from your HSA. By then, that money could have doubled or tripled in value. Tax-free.
Real example:
My friend Sarah has been maxing out her HSA for five years ($4,000 a year). She invests it in an S&P 500 index fund through her HSA provider. That money has grown to about $26,000 now. She’s paid about $8,000 in medical expenses out of pocket during that time and kept all the receipts.
Whenever she wants, she can reimburse herself that $8,000 from the HSA completely tax-free. But the longer she waits, the more that money grows.
For 2025, you can contribute $4,300 if you’re single or $8,550 for a family. Add another $1,000 if you’re 55 or older.
I just increased my HSA contribution for next year. Honestly wished I’d known about this strategy years ago.
The Roth IRA Conversion Trick
This one’s a bit more advanced, but it’s worth understanding if you have money in a traditional IRA or 401(k).
Basically, traditional retirement accounts make you pay taxes when you withdraw the money in retirement. Roth accounts make you pay taxes now, but never again—not on the growth, not on withdrawals, nothing.
Why winter matters for this:
By December, you know exactly what your income is for the year. This lets you do what’s called a Roth conversion—move some money from traditional to Roth—without accidentally bumping yourself into a higher tax bracket.
Let’s say you’re single and made $85,000 this year. The 22% tax bracket goes up to $103,350. That means you’ve got about $18,000 of “room” left before you hit the next bracket.
You could convert $18,000 from your traditional IRA to Roth, pay 22% on it now, and never pay taxes on that money again—even when it doubles or triples.
This is especially powerful if you think tax rates might be higher in the future, or if you expect to have a lot of retirement income.
The timing play:
Some people get really strategic about this. If you had a lower-income year—maybe you were between jobs for a few months, or had a business loss—that’s the perfect time to do larger Roth conversions because your tax rate is temporarily lower.
I’m talking to my accountant about doing a small conversion this year. Nothing massive, just testing the strategy.
Index Funds and Dollar-Cost Averaging: The Boring Strategy That Actually Works
Look, I’m not going to pretend day trading or picking individual stocks is something most of us should do. Every time I’ve tried to be clever with stock picks, the market has humbled me pretty quickly.
But here’s what has worked: buying low-cost index funds regularly, regardless of what the market is doing.
What this means in practice:
Every paycheck, a set amount goes into a total stock market index fund. When the market is up, I buy a little less shares. When the market is down, I buy more shares. Over time, my average cost per share smooths out.
The S&P 500 has averaged about 10% returns annually over the long run. Even if you account for 3-4% inflation, you’re still earning 6-7% real returns. Show me a savings account doing that.
Winter advantage:
Markets get jumpy in winter. Year-end tax selling. Economic reports. Political uncertainty. This creates dips that feel scary in the moment but are actually great for long-term buyers.
Last December, there was a nasty dip just before Christmas. I was tempted to pause my automatic investments. Glad I didn’t—that “scary” dip is now looking like a great entry point.
Where to start:
Pretty much any brokerage—Vanguard, Fidelity, Schwab—offers total market index funds with fees under 0.1% annually. You can set up automatic investments for as little as $50 or $100 per month.
I have mine set to pull $250 every two weeks, right after my paycheck hits. I barely notice it anymore, but the account keeps growing.
Real Estate Without Buying Property
Not everyone has $50,000 for a down payment or wants to deal with tenants and repairs. I definitely don’t. But you can still invest in real estate through something called REITs—Real Estate Investment Trusts.
Basically, these are companies that own and operate real estate properties. Apartment buildings, shopping centers, office buildings, warehouses, even cell towers and data centers. You buy shares in the REIT, and you own a tiny piece of all those properties.
Why this matters right now:
Real estate often acts as a hedge against inflation. When prices rise, rents rise. Property values typically rise. And REITs are required by law to pay out 90% of their income as dividends, so you get regular income.
You can buy REIT index funds that own hundreds of properties for instant diversification. No tenant calling you at 2 AM about a broken pipe.
Winter consideration:
The last few months of the year often see interesting movements in REIT prices as funds rebalance. Sometimes creates buying opportunities.
I added a REIT index fund to my portfolio last year as about 10% of my total investments. The dividends hit my account quarterly, which is nice. Not getting rich off it, but it’s another piece of the diversification puzzle.
Municipal Bonds: The Tax-Free Income Play
This one only makes sense if you’re in a higher tax bracket, but it’s worth knowing about.
Cities and states issue bonds to fund projects—roads, schools, infrastructure. When you buy these municipal bonds, the interest you earn is typically exempt from federal taxes and often state taxes too.
When this matters:
If you’re single making over $100,000 or married making over $200,000, you’re probably in the 24% federal bracket or higher. Add state taxes, and you might be paying 30% or more on investment income.
A municipal bond yielding 4% tax-free is equivalent to a taxable bond yielding about 5.7% in that situation. That’s a significant difference over time.
December timing:
Municipalities often issue new bonds in December and January for budget reasons. This can create opportunities to lock in favorable rates.
I’m not quite in the tax bracket where this makes sense yet, but it’s on my radar for the future. Good to understand before you need it.
Dividend Growth Stocks: The Slow and Steady Approach
Some companies have increased their dividends every single year for 25+ years straight. Through recessions, market crashes, everything. They’re called Dividend Aristocrats.
Companies like Johnson & Johnson, Coca-Cola, Procter & Gamble—boring, stable businesses that just keep paying.
The compound magic:
Let’s say you buy a stock yielding 3% in dividends. The company increases the dividend 7% every year. In ten years, your dividend yield on your original investment is now 6%. In twenty years, it’s 12%.
That’s how you build passive income that outpaces inflation over time.
The reinvestment accelerator:
Most brokerages let you automatically reinvest dividends. So you get a dividend payment, it automatically buys more shares, which pay more dividends, which buy more shares. Compound growth on autopilot.
I’ve got a small position in a dividend growth fund. The dividends are tiny right now—we’re talking maybe $30 a quarter. But if I keep reinvesting and adding to it, that number should grow substantially over the next decade or two.
Tax-Loss Harvesting: The December Money Saver
Okay, this one’s a bit technical but can save you real money if you have investments in taxable accounts (not retirement accounts).
The basic idea:
Let’s say you bought some tech stocks earlier this year that are down $3,000. But your overall portfolio is up $5,000. You can sell those losing investments, capture the $3,000 loss, and use it to offset your gains.
Now instead of paying taxes on $5,000 in gains, you’re only paying taxes on $2,000 in gains. If you’re in the 15% capital gains bracket, that’s $450 saved.
The clever part:
You can immediately buy a similar (but not identical) investment. So you sell your tech fund, buy a different tech fund, and maintain your market exposure while getting the tax benefit.
December deadline:
This has to be done by December 31st to count for this year’s taxes. It’s why you see a lot of selling pressure in late December—people doing tax-loss harvesting.
My portfolio has a few positions in the red this year. I’m planning to harvest those losses in the next couple weeks and redeploy into similar investments. Should reduce my tax bill by a few hundred dollars.
The Backdoor Roth Strategy
If you make too much money to contribute directly to a Roth IRA (over $161,000 for singles, $240,000 for married couples), there’s a perfectly legal workaround.
You contribute to a traditional IRA (which has no income limits), then immediately convert it to a Roth IRA. You’ll pay taxes on the conversion, but since you’re doing it immediately, there’s minimal growth to tax.
End result: you’ve gotten money into a Roth IRA despite the income limits.
Why bother:
Roth IRAs are incredibly powerful for high earners. Tax-free growth forever. No required minimum distributions in retirement. You can pass them to heirs tax-free.
This is definitely more advanced territory, and you probably want to talk to a tax professional before attempting it. But it’s a legitimate strategy that wealthy people use routinely.
What Not to Do This Winter
Just as important as knowing what to do is knowing what to avoid.
Don’t chase last year’s winners. Whatever asset class crushed it last year is what everyone piles into—right before it underperforms. Bitcoin had a great year? Suddenly everyone’s a crypto expert. Technology stocks boomed? Everyone becomes a tech investor. Usually that’s peak timing.
Don’t panic sell. Markets get choppy in winter. There will be down days, down weeks. Stay the course. Every study shows that staying invested beats market timing over the long run.
Don’t ignore fees. A fund charging 1% annually might not sound like much. But over 30 years, that 1% fee can cost you literally hundreds of thousands in lost compound growth. Favor low-cost index funds when possible.
Don’t forget inflation in your thinking. A 4% return sounds decent until you realize inflation is 3.5%. Your real return is only 0.5%. Always think in terms of inflation-adjusted returns.
Your Actual Action Plan for the Next 60 Days
Enough theory. Here’s what you can actually do:
This week:
- Check if you can increase your 401(k) contribution before year-end
- See if you have HSA eligibility and contribution room left
- Open a TreasuryDirect.gov account (takes 10 minutes)
Before December 31st:
- Complete any tax-loss harvesting opportunities
- Finalize 401(k) and HSA contributions for 2025
- Consider a Roth conversion if it makes sense for your situation
- Buy I Bonds if you have cash available
January 2026:
- Contribute to IRA for 2025 (you have until tax day)
- Set up automatic investments if you haven’t already
- Buy your first T-Bill to test the process
- Increase your 401(k) percentage for the new year
February-March:
- Use tax refund to buy additional I Bonds
- Review your overall investment mix
- Set up quarterly check-ins on your calendar
The Real Talk Section about New Year Investment Tips
Look, I’m not a financial advisor. I’m just someone who got tired of feeling behind financially and started learning how money actually works.
Everything I’ve shared here, I’m either doing myself or seriously considering. None of it requires being rich to start. You don’t need $50,000 sitting around. You can start with $100, $500, whatever you’ve got.
The families I know who are building real wealth aren’t necessarily making six figures. They’re the ones who started somewhere, stayed consistent, and let compound growth do its thing over time.
This winter, while everyone else is just trying to survive the expenses, you could be positioning yourself differently. Not with some get-rich-quick scheme. Just with boring, proven strategies that actually work.
Your future self will thank you for starting today instead of waiting for the “perfect” moment that never comes.
What’s the one move you’re going to make this week?
Sometimes just deciding is enough to get the ball rolling.
Frequently Asked Questions About Winter Investing
Honestly, you can start with as little as $100. Most brokerages nowadays have zero account minimums. I started my first index fund investment with $250, and I’ve seen people begin with even less. The key isn’t starting big—it’s starting at all. Even $50 a month invested consistently beats $0 every single time.
This one depends on the interest rate. If you’ve got credit card debt at 22% APR, pay that off first—no investment is guaranteed to beat 22%. But if you have a mortgage at 4% or student loans at 5%, I’d suggest doing both: pay minimums on the low-interest debt while investing. And always, always get your full 401(k) match from your employer first. That’s literally free money you’re leaving on the table otherwise.
Not even close. My uncle started seriously investing at 47 and built a solid nest egg by the time he retired at 65. Sure, starting at 25 gives you more time for compound growth, but starting at 45 still gives you 20+ years. The worst time to start is never. The second-worst time is “someday.” The best time? Today.
This is everyone’s fear, and honestly, it might happen. Markets go up and down. But here’s the thing—if you’re investing consistently (dollar-cost averaging), a crash actually lets you buy more shares at lower prices. I was terrified during the 2020 COVID crash, but those investments are now some of my best performers. If you’re investing for 10+ years, short-term crashes are just noise.
For me, yes. Think of it this way—that money sitting in your savings account earning 2% while inflation runs at 4% means you’re losing 2% in purchasing power. I Bonds protect against that. The one-year lockup actually helps me not touch money I shouldn’t be touching anyway. It’s enforced discipline, which honestly, I need sometimes.
Crypto is pure speculation, not investment. If you want to put 2-5% of your portfolio into it as a “lottery ticket,” fine, but only with money you can genuinely afford to lose completely. I’ve got a tiny crypto position myself, but it’s money I’ve made peace with potentially going to zero. Your actual financial future shouldn’t depend on crypto working out.




